1.-Common topic Archives

Microsoft Corp. will highlight Nikon’s D5000 and COOLPIX S230 cameras as part of the Windows 7 launch, showcasing the above compatibility and user navigation at the Windows 7 launch event in New York City on October 22
The Windows 7 Device Stage interface for the D5000 and COOLPIX S230 cameras, available in November, will provide users with a graphical representation of their specific camera model when connected to their Windows 7-based computer. Users will be able to easily identify their camera as a disk drive and quickly access and manage their photos and videos. In addition, the windows for accessing these specific cameras are customized with Nikon’s logo and branding, and provide links to Nikon’s product Web pages, allowing consumers to quickly navigate to their product’s individual online resource.

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Here are some of the key highlights and differences between Canon EOS-1D Mark IV and Nikon D3s:

  1. Fast 10 frames per second operation (Nikon D3s is 9 FPS).
  2. Default ISO range of 100-12800 with “boost” modes up to ISO 102400 (Nikon D3s is 200-12800 & also up to ISO 102400).
  3. Full HD 1080p video recording capability (Nikon D3s is only 720p).
  4. A large buffer that can handle up to 121 large JPEG images (Nikon D3s can handle 130 JPEGs @ 12.1 mp).
  5. A brand new 45 point auto focus system (Nikon D3s has 51 focus points).
  6. Both Canon EOS-1D Mark IV and Nikon D3s have the same 3″ size screens with 920,000 pixels
  7. Canon EOS-1D Mark IV features a 16.1 megapixel CMOS sensor (Nikon D3s has a 12.1 mp CMOS sensor).
  8. The sensor on Canon EOS-1D Mark IV has a 1.3x crop factor (not full frame), whereas the Nikon D3s sports a full frame sensor (FX).
  9. Canon EOS-1D Mark IV is priced at $4,999.00, while Nikon D3s is priced at $5,199.95.

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Ok Let’s continue

Crop Reduction

Some lenses are designed to reduce this crop factor. While they cannot eliminate it completely, they can adjust for it.

Essentially, the lens is designed so that the back (the part that attaches to the camera) is closer to the digital SLR sensor.

Since the back of the lens is closer to the sensor, it reduces the amount that the small-sized sensor crops out of the image.

There is one big drawback to this type of lens: it won’t work with a film SLR camera. If you’re never going back to film again, then lenses like these won’t limit you one bit.

Image Stabilization (also called vibration reduction).

The stabilization helps when you are holding the camera in your hands and taking photos at slow shutter speeds.

Typically, this would result in a blurry photo, but with an image stabilization lens you can get clear shots. The stabilization corrects for the fact that the lens is shaking around.

This is especially helpful on lenses with long focal lengths (100mm or greater) since camera shake is magnified at long focal lengths.

You are going to pay a huge premium for an image-stabilized lens, but if you take a lot of photos in low-light conditions and don’t want to attach the camera to a tripod all the time, this is the way to go.

Image-stabilized lenses are NOT necessary with digital SLR cameras that include built-in anti-shake.

Superior Optics

Some lenses are designed with special optics that adjust for distortion, reduce flare and stray light from entering the lens and are designed to produce images with maximum clarity.

These lenses all come with different names

For example, Nikon used the term “ED” while Canon’s pro optics are branded with an “L”

Any one of these lenses is going to cost significantly more than a lens without the superior optics.

Internal Zoom

This really is a specialty feature, but it can make a difference. If you have a zoom lens with an external zoom, the length of the lens changes as you zoom from wide angle to telephoto.

With an internal zoom, the length of the lens is always a constant.

This is helpful for 3 reasons:

1. an internal zoom does not affect the balance of the camera. If you have your digital SLR attached to a tripod and use an external zoom, the changing length of the zoom changes the center of gravity of the camera.

2. internal zooms tend to be smoother and faster than their external counterparts.

3. external zooms can “slide”. This means that if you are pointing the camera toward the ground, the lens will zoom in unless you are holding onto the zoom ring.

The World’s Most Expensive Digital SLR Lens

Each one of these features will add to the price of your lens:

  • Internal zoom
  • Wide maximum aperture
  • Full-time manual focus
  • Superior optics
  • Silent autofocus
  • Image stabilization
  • Long focal length
  • Crop reduction
  • Non-rotating front element

Hope that guide can help you.

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Cannon EOS7D preview

canon-eos7d-with-grip2
The Canon 7D is an 18-megapixel semi-pro DSLR that shoots 1080p video in 24—or 30—glorious frames per second
The 7D feels like Canon took the results of a survey they handed out to people about what they wanted in a camera and crammed ‘em all into one product targeted at semi-pros. Full HD video with manual exposure in 24, 25 or 30 frames per second, check. More rugged, weatherproof body than 5D.

Customizable buttons, including a new multifunction button. A dedicated button for switching to RAW+JPEG mode.

Electronic axis level? It has dual DIGIC IV image processors, the first model outside of the pro 1Ds line with dual image processors for fast burst shooting: 8FPS with 94-shot JPEG bursts (124 with UDMA card) or 15 RAW shots, all at full resolution with 14-bit A/D conversion.
But, it’s not full-frame: They’ve crammed 18 megapixels into an APS-C-sized sensor (like in the Rebel series or 50D, versus full-frame in the 5D) with an ISO range from 100-6400, and a Hi setting of 12,800. Canon says they’ve shortened the distance between the photodiodes in the sensor, which decreases light falloff, supposedly translating into better high ISO performance.

Video
It might just be the best video on a DSLR yet: Manual exposure from the get-go, and oh yeah, the ability to shoot 1080p video at 30, 24 or 25 frames per second. If you cut it to 720p, you can shoot up to 60FPS. Also, video is encoded using H.264 now. There’s a dedicated switch to flip from shooting stills to video that encircles a start/stop button for recording, so it’s much easier to get right to shooting video than the 5D.

Other

Focusing system has 19 cross-type points, with a new way to focus in addition to the usual full-blast autofocus vs. single-point—zones, which are clusters of points. You can also lock different default focus points for horizontal and vertical orientations, so you can turn the camera back and worth without having to repick your focus point. (Setting it up is a little confusing—even the Canon rep took a minute to make it happen.) AI servo focus is supposedly smarter, so it tracks moving objects better, and it works with a new light-source detection system that adjusts for flickering light. (We didn’t get a chance to check that out.)
The viewfinder provides 100 percent coverage, like the 1Ds, and it uses a new polymer LCD network with a different graphics overlay than the 5D—that’s a lot like what Nikon’s got in the D300, In a first for Canon, the built-in, wide-coverage flash can command other wireless flash modules.

This item is in high demand and supplies from the manufacturer are limited.If  you interest you can Pre-order HERE (body only) or with 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens
You can find another model review at http://rebeldigitalslr.com

Popularity: 19% [?]

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Here’s the list of features that manufacturers pack into modern digital SLR lenses:

  • Silent autofocus
  • Full-time manual focus
  • Non-rotating front element
  • Crop reduction
  • Superior optics
  • Image stabilization
  • Internal zoom

Silent Autofocus

If you enjoy taking discreet photos or don’t want your subjects to be aware that you’ve got a camera aimed at them, this type of focus will give you away every time.

Common names for this include Ultra-Sonic Motor (USM) and Hyper-Sonic Focus (HSF). All that these really means is the lens is dead quiet when it is focusing.

It’s is also an essential tool for wildlife photographers

Full-Time Manual Focus

On most lenses, if you want to switch from autofocus to manual focus you have to flick a switch on the lens.

Since autofocus systems don’t always get it right, having the ability to focus manually all the time is helpful.

Some special set of lenses that feature full-time manual focus. This means that even if the autofocus for the lens is engaged, you can still focus manually to make fine-tuned adjustments.

Non-Rotating Front Element

On some lenses, the front of the lens rotates when you focus.

If you put a piece of tape at the top of your lens and then focused on your subject, the tape would not longer be at the top.

So the front spins around. It is a problem if you are a landscape photographer trying to use a polarizing filter on your lens.

A polarizing filter changes the light entering the lens depending upon how it is oriented. Let’s say that you set your polarizing filter just how you want it.

Now you focus, and the polarizer spins around. It is no longer capturing the same image as before, so now you have to re-set it.You’ll have to re-set it every time you focus.If you know for sure that you’re going to take landscape photos with your digital SLR, you’re probably going to want to use a polarizing filter at some point.

Make sure that the lens you get has a non-rotating front element.

Continue  part 2…

For more info visit http://rebeldigitalslr.com read reveiw,guide and tips for Canon and Nikon DSLR cemera.

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First and Third Party Defined

1. First party lenses are NOT interchangeable with cameras from different manufacturers: a Canon lens will not attach to a Pentax camera and vice versa.

2. The lenses are interchangeable with different camera models from the same manufacturer: a single Canon lens will work with every Canon digital SLR camera.

The third party lenses, there are really only three major players: Sigma, Tamron and Tokina.

The same third party lens can be attached to cameras from different manufacturers, so long as the lens mount is correct.example, the Tamron 28-70mm f/2.8 zoom comes with a Canon mount (to attach to all Canon digital SLRs)

Once you’ve bought a lens with a specific mount type it won’t attach to cameras that don’t share the same lens mounting system

First Party Advantages

1. Quality – the build quality of first party lenses (especially those made by Canon and Nikon) is part of the reason why many professional photographers don’t use anything else.

2. Compatibility – since all modern lenses are electronic, it makes sense that the camera manufacturers are the one who can make lenses that are most compatible with their cameras.

Third Party Advantages

1. More Options – camera manufacturers can’t make a lens to suit every need, which is why the third party companies are able to step in and fill the gaps.

2. Lower Prices – in order to be competitive with the big camera companies, many third party lenses don’t cost as much as the first party alternatives.
The quality of third party lenses has also improved, so many of them are now indistinguishable from a similar first party lens.

Third party lenses is that they favor the two leading manufacturers: Canon and Nikon. If your digital SLR is made by Pentax, Olympus or Sony, it will be much easier to find a first party lens.

Which One To Choose?

When you have a complete picture of the lens you would like to have, see what’s available.
If a third party lens is a closer match to your ideal lens than a first party, then I would recommend you buy the third party lens without hesitation.
if there is a first party lens that is also a strong contender, then compare the two side-by-side

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What you must do is to resolve within yourself what are your priorities when purchasing a new Digital Rebel.

Oh, almost forgot to tell you. But you probably know already. There is no Rebel X1i. . . yet.

I have no idea how the camera makers are equipped with cameras in their names, but it certainly is not clear, is not it?

There is a long line of rebel digital, from the original Digital Rebel 300D. At that time there were combinations of 3 characters to remember, as XSi, XT1 or JQ2. These letters are difficult to keep in mind if you do not already have one of the devices they represent. One thing has remained constant is the number system that Canon uses. It ’started with the Rebel 300D, and each new voice added 50. Then there was the Digital Rebel 350D, 400D, and now we are up to the 500D is the T1i.

So this article really know if you need to buy a Digital Rebel 450D and 500D.

Historically, Canon has added to the Rebel line of cameras every 2 years.

Each new item have been some significant improvements over its predecessor.

rebelThat is, until you get the latest offering, which hit the market about a year after the previous version.

The result is, in the opinion of many experts, that improving the Rebel T1i are not sufficient to justify a person to buy the latest model.

Now, there are a couple of good reasons to buy the latest version of the Rebel:

I checked with some very reliable sources to reach the conclusion that the previous version of Digital Rebel (XSI) is very reliable, and digital camera that takes pictures that are considered among the best at this level and price range.

There are some differences I noticed:

OK, it seems that I am totally against the Digital Rebel T1i.

But it is not.

I think both cameras would be a great fit for anyone but extreme amateur or professional photographer.

Digital Rebels have always given them the fantastic images. Mine certainly did. And these devices are not different. Both are highly recommended.

We hope that you are better informed today than you were. Buying a new camera has always been an exciting adventure for me. There are so many options and features that guests techy look pro. But, in my opinion, it all boils down to this – that the photo does not do what you do.
For more info and review of Canon DSLR visit http://rebeldigitalslr.com

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DSLR Guide: Know about Lens part:5

How to Tell the Maximum Aperture of a Lens

example:

* 50mm f/1.8
* 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
* 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3

The first set of numbers represent the focal length or focal length range.
The second set of numbers these indicate the maximum aperture of the lens.there’s really no point in marking the MINIMUM aperture on the lens, because that’s pretty much the same for all lenses.

Constant Maximum Aperture.

The maximum aperture of a prime lens is only one.
With some zoom lenses, there can be TWO maximum apertures.because your zoom lens has a variable maximum aperture.
Example: 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 zoom.

* At 18mm the maximum aperture is f/3.5
* At 55mm the maximum aperture narrows to f/5.6

Somewhere in the middle of the zoom range (30mm) you’ll get a maximum aperture number somewhere in the middle – say, f/4.
Zoom lenses like this are a real problem for professional photographers who control their cameras manually. This is because with a variable max aperture zoom, exposure settings constantly change as you zoom in and out.
But there are plenty of zoom lenses with constant maximum apertures.

Example: 28-70mm f/2.8 (2.8 is the max aperture at both 28mm and 70mm and everywhere in between)

What Max Aperture Do You Need?

LightingRationaleMax Aperture
IndoorsIf you want to take photos indoors without a flash, you need to get a lens with a very wide maximum aperture to let in plenty of lightf/1.4 - f/2.8
OvercastOvercast days are especially challenging for sports photographers, who need to use fast shutter speeds to freeze motionf/2.8 - f/3.5
ShadeShade is not as dim as a cloudy day and you have a bit more leeway when it comes to the maximum aperturef/3.5 - f/5.6
DaylightIn broad daylight it really doesn't matter what the max aperture of the lens is - you probably won't be using it because it lets in too much light and over-exposes the imageAny

If your photos succeed or fail based on having a fast shutter speed (so that they don’t all turn out blurry) then you’re going to want to find a lens with a nice wide max aperture to help you get blazing-fast shutter speeds regardless of the amount of natural light.

Continue…next part.
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DSLR Guide: Know about Lens part:4

Aperture

The maximum aperture of the lens you choose can have a significant impact on the types of photos you can take with your digital SLR camera.

There is a standard scale for aperture numbers

1.4 / 2.0 / 2.8 / 4.0 / 5.6 / 8.0 / 11 / 16 / 22 / 32  let’s see picture below.

apertur

Form www.elizabethannedesigns.com

Smaller Aperture Number (1.4) = Wider Aperture = More Light

Larger Aperture Number (16) = Narrower Aperture = Less Light

Maximum Aperture

The limit to how wide a lens can be opened is called the maximum aperture.

All lens apertures can be narrowed as much as you want. For example, every lens on the market today – regardless of manufacturer – can be set to f/16.

But every lens on the market cannot be opened up to f/1.4

Lens A might have a maximum aperture of f/2.8 while lens B will have a maximum aperture of f/4. While both lenses can be set to an aperture of f/8 (narrower than the maximum setting) the f/4 lens cannot be opened up to f/2.8.

The benefits of lenses with wide maximum apertures is

Natural Light Photos

A digital SLR camera sensor needs light to create an image.

There are two ways that it can get the light that it needs: it can keep the shutter open for a long period of time or open the aperture as wide as possible.

If you had a lens with more a maximum aperture Then you can use more a shutter speed which means that you can get clear photos without the flash.

Fast Shutter Speeds

Example: You set the aperture on your lens as wide as it can go (let’s say f/5.6), and check the shutter speed. The camera tells you that you can use a shutter speed of 1/125 of a second

If you had a lens with a wider maximum aperture you could get the shot. With a wider aperture (say f/2.8) your shutter speed could be 1/500 of a second.

Since the wide aperture lets in so much light, the shutter doesn’t have to stay open as long.

Reduced Depth of Field

Lenses with wide maximum apertures have shallow depth of field.

If you have a lens with a maximum aperture of f/5.6, you can’t reduce the depth of field as much as you can with a wider aperture.

Nature and portrait photographers use Wider Aperture all the time to reduce the impact of a busy background.

..Continue next time.
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DSLR Guide: Know about Lens part:3

What’s a Prime Lens?

A prime lens has a fixed focal length.Like this sample.

Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Camera LensCanon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Camera Lens Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR CamerasNikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras

The focal length of the lens is set to one number and cannot be changed. If you enjoy taking photos at 28mm, 100mm and 300mm you’ll need 3 lenses, one for each focal length. They’re High Quality they’re give clearer photos than zoom lens and lighter in weight If you want a digital SLR camera with maximum portability, just attach a really nice lens to it and go on your way.

You can also get reasonably priced prime lenses with wide apertures that let in a lot of light. These are the perfect lenses for photographers who want to photograph in low light without using the flash.

Zoom Lens

A zoom lens has a variable focal length.Like this.

Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens for Canon SLR CamerasCanon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens for Canon SLR Cameras

Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR [Vibration Reduction] Zoom Nikkor LensNikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR [Vibration Reduction] Zoom Nikkor Lens

These are the most common types of lenses available for digital SLR cameras. The standard lens packaged with many new digital SLRs is an 18-55mm zoom. Because flexibility offered by these lenses is very appealing to photographers who are just starting out with an SLR.
If you want to get a zoom lens that performs photo quality as well as a prime, you’re going to spend a lot of money.
Zooms lens cover a range of focal lengths, so any zoom you look at will always reference two numbers: the wide angle setting and the telephoto setting. Like this a 28-300mm zoom. Is
• Wide angle setting: 28mm
• Telephoto setting: 300mm

Zoom Range:

Wide Angle to Wide Angle:      10mm to 28mm

Wide Angle to Telephoto:        28mm to 300mm

Telephoto to Telephoto:          100mm to 600mm

Super Zoom :                         18mm to 300mm

Super zoom is a good lens to get started with (it gives you a wide range of photographic opportunities) .If you discover what you love to photograph, you can getting a specialty zoom that just covers the range you use the most.

Next tomorrow…

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